Spain

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A couple of months ago I was interviewed by the features director of the UK’s Good Housekeeping magazine[1].

She was writing an article on the pros and cons of moving abroad, and wanted my “expert opinion” on the topic … which naturally I was more than happy to provide (not least since the magazine has a monthly circulation of half a million readers!).

The article has just come out. And – aside from my own contribution – it makes for fascinating reading.

Expat Challenges

The piece features case studies of people who have moved from the UK to some of the world’s most popular expat destinations: France, Italy, Spain, Australia and the United States. Each highlights the issues they have faced, and offers pointers to anyone following in their footsteps (much of which echoes the topics I address in my book).

Among the biggest challenges the expats encountered were:

  • Housing problems
  • Unfamiliarity with local legal processes and requirements
  • Acclimatising to the local weather
  • Finding social outlets and integrating into the community
  • Having a viable way to earn money
  • Missing family and friends

 

Hopefully the tips and advice contained in the article will prove a valuable primer for those readers also dreaming of a life overseas!


[1] Good Housekeeping magazine, http://www.allaboutyou.com/home/channel~index?source=1

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Spain 30 – England 20.

No, it’s not some freakish football score. It’s the current temperature differential between our home in the UK and our former one in the north-east of Spain.

The forecast for the coming week in England doesn’t look much more promising either. Temperatures barely struggling out of the teens centigrade, and the threat of heavy rain showers. Yippee.

Remind me – why did we move back to the UK?

Sort of summer

Still, that’s a British summer for you.  The odd few days of glorious sunshine, when there seems like no more beautiful place to be on Earth, followed by leaden skies and rain squalls.

It’s a season of uncertainty – periods of joy mixed with gloom. One day you’re in shorts and sandals and the next it’s jumpers and coats.

As for making plans to enjoy the Great Outdoors … in the words of Hugh Grant in Mickey Blue Eyes, Forgeddaboutit.

In other words, hardly ideal conditions when you have kids who want to be spending their days building sandcastles on the beach, or splashing around in a pool.

(For that matter, have you swum in the sea around Britain recently? Are you crazy?)

Sunshine costs

Nevertheless, seeing the BBC News reminded me that the scorching summers seen across southern Europe and elsewhere do have their downsides.

For instance, parts of the Spanish coast are being plagued at present by an invasion of jellyfish, to the painful detriment of the people that have come in contact with them.

Meanwhile, swathes of northern Portugal are being cremated by a series of forest fires, an annual occurrence in many parts of the region.

There is, after all, a price to be paid for the sun.

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Bullfighting divides opinion, even in its Spanish heartland. Some see it as a majestic cultural tradition that pays homage to the courage and skill of both man and mighty beast. Others regard it as unacceptable animal cruelty.

In Spain, bullfighting evokes a bygone era, a traditionalist view of the country – for either right or wrong.

But now Catalunya – that independent-minded region in the north-east of the peninsula – has broken ranks and banned it (although it won’t take effect until January 2012).

The Canary Islands had banned bullfighting way back in 1991, but given the lack of fights that took place there anyway the move was of limited impact nationwide. Catalunya, by contrast, is a much bigger and more culturally, politically and economically important region.

So is this a major step towards the wholesale end of bullfighting in Spain? Or just another example of Catalunya’s gradual cleaving from the rest of the country, an expression of its separate identity and autonomy?

A bit of both, I think.

Bullfighting is a minority interest among the general public in any case, and particularly among the younger generation. Unless they suddenly get a taste for it in later life, that decline will only continue.

Meanwhile, Spanish state TV’s decision to stop live bullfight coverage back in 2007 is one indication of how opinions are changing. Catalunya’s decision may then serve to mobilise nationwide opposition further.

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Once England got knocked out of the World Cup there was no doubt which team I wanted to win … having been a resident of the country for so many years it had to be Spain.

But what if Spain and England had happened to meet in the World Cup final?

This issue of country allegiances and divided loyalties struck me during this year’s tournament climax because one of our good friends in the Spanish town where we lived hails from the Netherlands. Who would she be cheering on to lift that special trophy?

We guessed it would be the boys in orange … albeit perhaps sotto voce. But what about her children? Living in Spain, with a Dutch mother and German father, where will their allegiances lie as they grow older?

It’s a question of identity. To my mind, the only point at which you can be said to have fully integrated into a country is when you cheer for that nation – be it in sports, war or whatever – above all others. That is when you become a true citizen, as opposed to a long-term resident. And in most cases, I reckon, that takes at least a generation.

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Golf, I’ve discovered, is not like riding a bike. Picking up a club for the first time in five years and expecting to smash ball after ball down the middle of the fairway was always going to be wishful thinking. I mean, if Tiger struggles with his game after months out what hope did I have?

At least the conditions were perfect. It was one of those glorious English summer evenings: the warm sun dipping towards the horizon, soft June light, shadows lengthening across the rolling green fairways, woodpigeons calling from the branches … the thwack of small white golf balls clattering into yet another copse of trees.

And, quality of play aside, it was great to get out last night for a hack round with my brothers, the first time we’d done it since before I moved to Spain seven years ago.

In fact, the last time I played was with my eldest brother, when he came to visit shortly after we moved abroad. On that occasion we tried out the Empordà Golf Resort, one of a string of top-notch courses to be found close to our home on the Costa Brava. Unfortunately, that was as far as my Spanish golf career got. Places like PGA Catalunya, which is ranked number seven in Golf World magazine’s Top 100 European courses, remain an unfulfilled dream.

For despite the fantastic facilities and ideal weather in Spain, time was always a problem.

The expat lifestyle may seem to be one of leisurely days spent drinking wine and soaking up the sun, but that isn’t the reality for most. I still had to work hard all week. And with two young daughters to look after it never seemed fair for me to slope off for five hours on the weekend to play, especially when we had no other family around to ease my wife’s childcare load.

As a result, it’s taken our repatriation to the UK for me to be able to dust off the clubs. That, and the chance to spend valuable time with my brothers, are among the plus points of moving back. If only I could have brought some of those magnificent courses with me.

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Having just come back from a conference in Vienna I got a little reminder of what the Austrian capital has to offer.

As a leading centre of European culture for hundreds of years, it is a city steeped in history and beauty. In spite of the bombing endured in World War II, Vienna remains an architectural delight – so much so that in 2001 the city centre was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are also world-class museums, fine parks, a rich musical tradition, and a multitude of wonderful cafes and restaurants.

Quality of Life Survey

I wasn’t surprised, therefore, to learn that Vienna claimed the top spot in the Mercer 2010 Quality of Life Survey, released last week[1].

The survey evaluates 420 cities worldwide, assessing the living conditions across 10 categories, which include the political and social environment, the economic environment, health and sanitation, schools and education, and recreation.

Having also come first in Mercer’s 2009 survey, it seems Vienna is cementing its status as the city offering the world’s best quality of life.

Meanwhile, Europe as a whole had 16 cities amongst the top 25 in the world. It underlines just how much the continent has to offer for prospective expats.

Happy Living

So what does all this mean for expatriates? Well, it is a useful guide into the ease of life you can expect to find when moving abroad to a new city.

For instance, while in Vienna a couple of weeks ago I got talking to two guys – one from Spain, the other from Colombia – who have both moved to Geneva. Their comments about the life they lead there certainly chime with its 3rd-place ranking in the Mercer survey.

But when looking at reports like Mercer’s there are a couple of provisos to bear in mind:

1)      By their nature, such considerations as quality of life are subjective. Mercer goes to great pains to compile valid statistical comparisons across its 10 life assessment categories. But these won’t necessarily mirror your judgements or priorities. (Furthermore, you may not even want to move to a foreign city, but instead plan to be by the beach or in the rural hinterland, where the situation may be very different to the country’s urban centres.)

2)      Quality of life ? happiness – it may be a contributor, and an important one, but happiness comes from a broader range of factors.

But that’s a topic for another time.


[1] Mercer 2010 Quality of Living Survey, released 26 May 2010 , http://www.mercer.com/qualityoflivingpr#City_Ranking_Tables

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The majority of Britons want out of the country. Or at least, that’s what a recent survey from foreign exchange broker Currency UK reports.

According to the research, this year an incredible 75% of Britons have considered moving abroad. The main reason for wanting to go was the economy (cited by 31% of respondents), followed by 23% who pointed to poor job prospects at home.

Most popular target destinations were found to be Australia, then Canada, the United States, New Zealand, Spain, France and Thailand.

The last such survey conducted by Currency UK was in 2005. That one reported a much more moderate 25% of respondents were considering leaving Britain.

Sounds terrible doesn’t it, as if the country has really gone to the dogs in the last five years, and a mass exodus is imminent. Maybe. But I have a couple of cautionary observations:

1)      Survey results are fallible. The outcome depends on the question asked, and so it is easy to skew the response according to how the query is phrased. So 75% is probably an over-inflation of the number of people seriously considering emigration.

2)      What the survey does highlight is a link between expatriation and current fears about the UK’s economy. In other words, things seem bad at home, so let’s move abroad. But this is to overlook the fact that similar – if not worse – problems are happening elsewhere.

Moving abroad is too-often seen as a panacea – offering an escape from all the woes of life at home, and the prospect of sun-filled, carefree days ahead. But it’s essential to be realistic. Recognize there are both pros and cons to living overseas, and make an informed decision on that basis.

The chances of finding happiness – whether at home or abroad – then become a lot higher.

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It had a certain inevitability. The UK’s May Day bank holiday weekend beckoned, but after a surprisingly warm and sunny April what happened? A washout.

The bank holiday was supposed to see us picnicking in the local park, catching up with old friends, many of whom we hadn’t seen for years thanks to our expatriation. A chance for us to meet each other’s kids, reflect on how we’ve all changed in the seven years since we moved to Spain.

But the rain, whipped up by a north-east wind and chilled by 10°C temperatures, put paid to that. Time for Plan B. So we found ourselves splashing through puddles en route to a tenpin bowling alley in a desperate attempt to find some indoor activity to keep the children entertained.

The usual British holiday routine, in other words. Welcome home!

Mind you, it’s no better in the corner of Spain where we used to live. From the Catalan meteorological bureau I see much of the Pyrenean region is being layered in fresh dumps of snow at the moment. And the Costa Bravan coast – normally basking in warm Mediterranean sunshine by now – is stuck with maximum temperatures of just 13°C, while being pummelled by rain and the fierce northerly wind known as the tramuntana.

Seems the cold winter so many parts of the world experienced this year just doesn’t want to let go. What will summer bring, I wonder?

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I was talking to a guy yesterday about moving abroad, and how I had recently repatriated from Spain to the UK. Like most people, his first question was “Why?”

“I bet you see a big difference in the cost of living,” he went on to add.

“Yes,” I said. “There are so many things that are much cheaper in the UK.”

Of course, it wasn’t what he expected to hear.

This morning was a case in point. Being a health-minded kind of person, on top of my breakfast cereal I sprinkled a handful of blueberries. Despite their ‘superfood’ properties, we rarely ate them in Spain. At approximately €4.00 (£3.50) for a small pack they were too expensive. By contrast, the ones I scoffed this morning came from an Asda supermarket (which is owned by Wal-Mart), where you could buy two packs for just £3.00.

And where were the Asda blueberries grown? You guessed it, Spain.

It’s not just blueberries. Wal-Mart’s purchasing power, and the fiercely competitive supermarket trade in the UK have brought a plethora of great deals onto the store shelves – for food, clothing, electronics, toys, toiletries and a host of other goods.

It’s the same across much of the retail arena. As a result, our weekly expenses are considerably less than they were in Spain.

And for items where Spain remains cheaper, the gap is closing in many cases. Petrol prices are a case in point.

Only housing in the UK, it seems, remains appreciably more expensive.

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I have just had my first Thai meal in seven years. Ahh, it’s good to be back in England!

I’ve adored Thai food ever since I spent a couple of months travelling around that beautiful land nearly 20 years ago. Of course, nothing can compare with the variety and richness of flavours you get in the country itself. But I have managed to find some pretty good substitutes among the multitude of Thai restaurants that have been set up around Britain.

So finding ourselves without a Thai restaurant – good or bad – in the corner of Spain to which we moved seven years ago was a big disappointment.

Even more disappointing, there was a dearth of “international cuisine” of pretty much any description. Our town boasted two Chinese restaurants, several pizzerias and some good Catalan-themed places. But that was it.

Don’t get me wrong, Spanish food is great. And being able to buy locally-caught fish from the shop around the corner, or stock up on fresh vegetables from the town square market is a treat. But there was always that hankering for variety.

Even cooking our favourite dishes at home proved tricky. The local supermarkets offered some ingredients for Mexican food and a few jars of ready-made curry sauces, but they are pricey in the extreme. The range of jarred spices available is limited, fresh ones almost non-existent. Even getting fresh coriander proved nigh-on impossible.

By contrast, Britain’s imperial past, and the country’s multi-ethnic diversity that has resulted, means practically every city, town and village offers an array of restaurants and takeaways, while the supermarket shelves are piled high with foodstuffs from all corners of the world. In New York, where we lived for a year at the turn of the millennium, the choice was even more abundant.

Britain is certainly not all great. Still, at least my taste buds are enjoying it.

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