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We went shopping in the local mall over the weekend, trying to sort some final presents before Christmas creeps up on us. The decorations have been up everywhere for a good month already in our corner of Spain, the trees decorated, baubles glinting in the fairy lights, tinsel sparkling, Santa Claus figures dangling from the ceilings. It’s almost like being in the States, or back in the UK.

 

Yet Catalunya has its idiosyncratic traditions too. One – less common in Barcelona but found across the rest of the region, especially in rural areas – is tió de Nadal (the Christmas log).

 

They can be bought in various sizes, but essentially it is a hollow tree log, commonly raised on one end by short stick legs, and with a painted face and stuck-on nose on the front (I know, but bear with me on this). The tió is ‘fed’ every night in the run up to Christmas, and then on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day, depending on your preference, it is beaten with a stick to a special accompanying song and ordered to poo out its treats of sweets or nuts and the like.

 

It may sound somewhat bizarre, but is – or so I am told by the teachers at my daughter’s school – magical for the children.

 

Meanwhile, across Spain the big present-giving celebration is not December 25 as in North America and some other parts of Europe, but Epiphany (January 6). For this is the day when the Three Kings (los Reyes) came to see Jesus in the stable, bringing their gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh.

 

Nevertheless, Santa Claus and Christmas Day gifts are slowly encroaching into the Spanish calendar – the power, I guess, of Disney and Coca Cola!

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It was the festival of Sant Joan (St. John) this week in Catalunya. The celebrations start at sunset on June 23 and run through until sunrise on the 24th (which is the feast day marking the birth of St John the Baptist), and are popularly known in this region as the Nit del Foc, meaning “night of fire.”

 

It is also the noisiest night of the year. Fire, with its purifying qualities, is one of the three symbols of the festival. As such it is traditional to light bonfires, as the flames are supposed to scare off the imaginary creastures that come out at night, and to ward off bad luck for the remainder of the year.

 

And along with the bonfires come huge organised firework displays, as well as a general and continuous explosion of rockets and firecrackers from every quarter, which lasts right through until dawn. Of course, you can imagine what licence for uproar this gives to the local kids.

 

A second symbol associated with Sant Joan is water, which is supposed to have curative powers on this night. According to the Barcelona city council’s website (http://www.bcn.es/santjoan/en/simbols.html), it is also customary to collect thyme, rosemary and verbena, as the powers of medicinal plants are thought to increase during this period.

 

Taken together, the Christian religious festival and these pagan Midsummer symbols that underlie it speak of purification and health, of rebirth. Not that many of the celebrants looked all that rejuvenated on the feast day itself I noticed, having been up most of the night. Nevertheless, the fiesta seemed to me a fitting reminder to all of us to make the most of the passing year.

 

To this end, it should mean celebrating our health and summer’s blessings. And also to seek out our own form of “rebirth,” in the sense of creating a better life for ourselves, whatever form your goals may take.

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So, this is my first post of a new blog that will offer up some (hopefully) useful thoughts and tips on the ups and downs of living abroad. And what a day to start with the invasion of the Red Devils to my Spanish neck of the woods!

Promises to be a cracking tie between two of the most entertaining teams in the world, and with arguably two of the world’s best attacking players in Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi. Barca haven’t been firing on all cylinders this season, and have had a poor run of form lately, but remain dangerous opponents. As for the Man Utd, they have been sublime at times this season (much as it pains me to say it as a Hammers fan!).

But who to support? Man U for a guaranteed English winner of this season’s Champions’ League? Or the local heroes?

Having been a resident of Catalunya for the last five years I know how much FC Barcelona means to the Catalans – this isn’t just a football team, it’s a symbol of their way of life. And now they’re out of the domestic race, thwarted once again by their arch-enemies Real Madrid, the Barca faithful will be desperate to win tonight and set up that dream final place. Yep, got to deny the English patriotism and root for my adopted home team. Come on the Barca!

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